|
 Costume
Connection
Costume companies answer frequently asked questions from
school owners
Thanks to the following people for contributing to this
article:
Sue Gordon, Algy Performance Collection
Art Stone, Art Stone/The Competitor
Mike Robertson,
Costume Gallery
Carol Hazel, Curtain Call Costumes
Tina Burrows, DesignWorks
Aletia Ferreira, Ferreira Dance & Costumes
Michelle Bronner, Meekelle Costumes
Deborah J. Nelson, Satin Stitches Ltd.
Claudia Reed and Annie Beck, Weissman’s Designs for Dance
Q:
The dancers in a lyrical routine range in size from medium
child through large adult, with a wide variety of body types.
Is there a certain style or cut that will flatter all of them?
Algy Performance Collection:
Look for a costume in an empire style with either a soft,
knee-length cascade skirt or a regular skirt. This cut can
make the heavier girls look thinner and the much thinner girls
look a little fuller. Knee-length skirts also create the
illusion of height on shorter students.
Art Stone/The Competitor:
A wide range of sizes means that some costumes will not look
as good on small children as on larger ones. Using different
costumes in different colors will help to make everyone look
good and feel comfortable.
Costume Gallery:
An empire-style line camouflages many body flaws, such as
large hips, thighs, and tummy, while elongating the legs and
torso. The best length is just above or just below the knees.
Curtain Call Costumes:
Black-and-white groups can be visually arresting, and then you
can choose individual styles that flatter each dancer.
DesignWorks:
A-line styles are flattering. Look for styles that cut in just
below the bust line and flow out. Ferreira Dance &
Costumes: Interchangeable pieces—for example, boy shorts,
capris, a skirt, or jazz pants with the same top—allow you to
create an overall uniform look while flattering all the
dancers individually.
Meekelle Costumes:
Lyrical dresses with empire waistlines tend to be the most
forgiving for any body type. They provide an updated look
along with great movement around the hip area, taking the
focus away from troublesome body parts. Also, a split-front
skirt adds movement and draws attention away from problem
areas.
Satin Stitches Ltd.:
Always consider the least “perfect” body shapes when looking
for costumes. But the key to being flattering is correct
fit. No style will look flattering if the garment does not
fit properly. Check to see which styles are offered in all the
sizes you need. Always be considerate with the bigger girls,
especially those with ample bust lines. Choose a style that
allows them to wear supportive undergarments.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
Styles with flowing skirts are always appropriate. Using
different styles in the same fabrics creates continuity while
allowing you to costume different body types appropriately.
Q:
My competition teams start their events at the beginning of
March and I like to have the costumes a couple of weeks before
that. When should I order the costumes to be sure they arrive
on time?
Algy Performance Collection:
Start shopping as soon as the costume books come out. Find out
the companies’ ship dates and plan accordingly. Some companies
offer styles with earlier delivery dates and state the
availability on the catalog page. Provide your vendor with an
actual date you need the costumes by, and contact them three
weeks before that date to confirm on-time delivery.
Art Stone/The Competitor:
For an early March delivery, have your orders in by mid- or
even early December. This gives the company plenty of time to
deliver and puts less stress on you.
Costume Gallery:
Many costume companies keep current styles in stock. However,
orders are processed on a first-come, first-served basis. We
recommend that you place your order by December 1 to ensure
delivery by mid-February.
DesignWorks:
Most of the fabric used in recital costuming comes from
overseas, forcing costume companies to purchase fabrics months
in advance. The earlier you place your order, the shorter the
manufacturing and shipping time will be. Place your order
before the end of the year for the best ship times. Keep in
mind that many companies require you to place a new order for
exchanges (if in-stock is not available). Always give yourself
four weeks of wiggle room.
Ferreira Dance & Costumes:
We usually ask for four to six weeks to get an order out the
door. If your events are at the beginning of March, order by
January 4 and your costumes will be shipped on February 8.
Meekelle Costumes:
We like to assure delivery in at least 10 to 12 weeks at that
time of year. So if costumes are needed in March, we would
like to receive the order by the Christmas season.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
For a ship date of mid- February, it would be safest to order
costumes by early December; however, we have a broad selection
of “Ready to Ship” costumes that can be found online or by
calling your customer service representative.
Q:
Our school has a lot of male students and I’m tired of putting
them in black pants and a shirt. Do you have any suggestions
for how to break out of the box but still give the boys a
masculine look?
Algy Performance Collection:
The trend in costuming male dancers is toward a more
theatrical look as opposed to just matching the girls.
Dressing as a character or for a concept has become fashionable
and can be created by looking at streetwear with a different
eye. Many companies now have men’s shirt
programs with multiple fabric choices for a customized look.
Art
Stone/The Competitor:
Look at all the catalogs. There is a larger selection for boys
this year than ever bef ore,
with a big range
of colors.
Costume Gallery:
Depending on the dance genre, cargo pants are very popular
with guys. This will
create a contemporary look for your production, and the
dancers can even wear them after the
show.
Curtain Call Costumes:
Cargo pants and stretch jeans are a great option. Also, ask
costume companies if they will make special costumes for your
male dancers.
Ferreira Dance & Costumes:
Since fewer boys take dance classes, it is less cost-effective
for costume companies to offer many styles of male dancewear.
We suggest jeans, button-down shirts, and T-shirts.
Meekelle Costumes:
Any color of top and most pants work on any male dancer, but
take it slowly—keep them in black pants and start with a
different colored top to mix things up a bit. Fashion
magazines are a great source to show your male dancers the
newest colors and styles and who is wearing them.
Satin Stitches Ltd.:
The key to a masculine look in male dancers’ costumes is being
well designed, well made, and well fitting. Inexpensive boys’
costumes don’t have the styling or structure to provide the
masculine look you want. The closer the costumes look and fit
like regular boys’ clothing—even if they are in nontraditional
colors or fabrics—the more masculine they will look. Find a
local dressmaker/tailor who can sew traditional boys’ clothes
in colors and fabrics to coordinate with your girls’ costumes.
Spandex can be sewn to look like regular clothes, but it
doesn’t always need to be used. Bright stage colors can be
used for boys’ pants, but they need to be made like street
pants, not like girls’ costume pants.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
Along with a series of tops in coordinating fabrics in a wide
variety of colors, there are also pants in great colors that
still look masculine. Add a splash of color with a necktie,
available in sparkling colors and polka dots—an inexpensive
way to coordinate with your girls’ costumes.
Q:
I have always wondered why costume company sizing charts are
different. Can’t you all offer the same sizing?
Algy Performance Collection:
Each company has invested thousands of dollars in patterns.
The cost to standardize size charts would be astronomical.
Art Stone/The Competitor:
Sizing charts for costumes are similar to charts in all
fields. For example, most dress companies have different
charts than their competitors. We would all love to use the
same chart, but when the materials come from different
suppliers, there are differences (for example, the stretch).
And the variety of suppliers would make huge differences and
cause more problems.
Costume Gallery:
Apparel companies have created huge libraries of body
measurements, which are used to develop patterns to create the
best fit possible based on fabric characteristics.
Unfortunately, no two companies have the same data. We have
developed a class sizing/organizational chart to help you. Go
to our website and click on “size chart” and then click on
“download class sizing chart.”
DesignWorks:
We do all of our patterning by computer, so our size charts
are accurate. However, teachers should read fabric
descriptions carefully since some fabrics (like those with a
“wet” look) will be tighter fitting. Your sales representative
is a valuable resource. Ask about fit and fabric before you
buy!
Ferreira Dance & Costumes:
Size charts are as arbitrary as the manufacturer wants them to
be. We offer a “true-tosize” fit as well as an in-between size
for wider-girth kids.
Meekelle Costumes:
We use fit models (girls of all ages) for our sizes, so we
stay within the junior sizing of all apparel. In addition, we
use fit mannequins within our size chart to ensure fit in a
range of sizes. However, not everyone wears a garment the same
way as someone else.
Satin Stitches Ltd.:
There is no standardization in any clothing.
Each company creates its own sizing, based on its own
expertise and feedback from customers.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
Many of the top costume companies’ size charts are similar.
The apparel industry publishes standard size charts, but
costume companies find that customers’ bodies don’t
necessarily fit these standards and are constantly trying to
find their own best fit.
For this reason they may vary somewhat in an effort to find
the “ideal” standard size chart. Communicating your needs to
your customer service representative helps us continue to
attempt to meet your needs.
Q:
Last year a parent came to the studio with a copy of the
costume catalog that I order from. She shared the wholesale
prices of the recital costumes with the other parents at my
school. Are there any measures in place to keep parents from
getting your catalogs?
Algy Performance Collection:
We work hard to protect the confidentiality of our price
lists. Our websites are password protected and proof of business
ownership is required before we will send a catalog out.
Art Stone/The Competitor:
Costume companies try very hard to send catalogs to teachers
only. But even when parents know what you pay and what you
charge them, you should not feel intimidated. When a butcher
buys meat at $3 a pound, he charges a markup for his work.
Think about how much work you put into looking at catalogs,
picking out costumes, measuring the students, and sending in
the orders—and then all the
time you spend on the phone with the suppliers. You are
entitled to a fair markup.
 Costume
Gallery:
We
require proof of profession before we add a dance studio or
organization to our mailing list. Maintaining confidential
price lists for studio owners and teachers is a priority for
us.
DesignWorks:
That should never happen. We do not provide catalogs or
price lists to anyone who is not listed as an authorized buyer
in our database. We require proper identification before we
will release information as well.
Ferreira Dance & Costumes:
We have strict measures that request studio contact
information and letterhead verification. There is no better
way of regulating this business. Our website allows studio
owners to unlock the prices with a code that is unique to that
studio. Parents and students may view the costumes, but
without the code they cannot view prices.
Meekelle Costumes:
We send to owners, instructors, and directors (with
appropriate signatures) with legitimate credentials only. The
computer era has made this a difficult task, but we do check
on every catalog request.
Satin Stitches Ltd.:
Every dance studio needs to be straight with its clients. Most
people understand that overhead and markups are needed to run
a business. If you sell costumes, you need to explain that
this is how your studio is able to cover costs and make a
profit in order to stay in business.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
We label our price booklets as “confidential” and put language
in the catalogs that they are not to be sold online or
otherwise distributed. But when we find one of our catalogs in
an online auction, we purchase it ourselves. We have made a
formal complaint about this activity; unfortunately, there are
no laws governing this kind of thing.
Q:
Is there a good way to clean costumes that have sequins or
rhinestones without damaging the garments?
Algy Performance Collection:
Today’s sequins are more durable than ever. Hot-fix
rhinestones stay on through gentle hand washing. The biggest
problem with washing costumes is letting them soak. Most
manufactures of gentle detergents say to wash for 2 minutes.
If a garment is constructed with different colored
fabrics, you need to be careful to keep them off one another
when wet and especially when drying. Laying the garments flat
to dry is usually your best bet. Blot wet costumes with one
colorfast towel and let them dry on another.
Art Stone/The Competitor:
Use a Tide or OxiClean stick to spot clean stains. If that
fails, most costumes can be drycleaned. To remove odors,
use Febreze.
Costume Gallery:
All costumes should come with care labels; follow the
instructions carefully. Unfortunately,
many of the unique fabrics and trims used in costumes cannot
be washed or dry-cleaned. If in doubt, talk with a
professional at a local cleaner’s.
Curtain Call Costumes:
Each garment should have cleaning instructions on the care
label. If you
need information about a specific garment, the customer
service department of the company you purchased it from should
be able to assist you.
DesignWorks:
No
heat on rhinestones or sequins, ever! Look for a product
called Fresh Again,
which will keep garments fresh without having to clean them
after each use.
Ferreira Dance & Costumes:
We always recommend spot cleaning until the performances are
complete. Asking a reputable dry cleaner for advice is the
best bet.
 Meekelle
Costumes:
You can use
a very mild detergent and hand wash or spot wash when
necessary. Hang dry, because a lot of fabrics are heat
sealed and react to heat more than you know. Deodorants and
perfumes can cause stains that are impossible to get out;
using a mild antiperspirant will minimize damage to the
underarm areas.
Satin Stitches Ltd.:
Each costume should have care instructions on it; if not, the
information should be listed in the catalog. Our costumes
include care instructions on the label, hang tag, and an
instructional sheet that is shipped with each order. Check
your orders for care information provided by the company. We
post many articles on our website that address all aspects of
costume laundering and care. Sequins should be able to be
gently hand washed, but with rhinestones it depends on how
they are applied. We use only Swarovski hot-fix rhinestones,
which can be hand washed or dry-cleaned (as long as the
fabrics that they are attached to can be too). Many of the
glitzy Spandex fabrics cannot be dry-cleaned without
losing their special finishes. Many fabrics cannot be washed
easily, either. We always recommend gently spot cleaning when
necessary and using a product such as Fresh Again to control
odor.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
Some professional cleaners may be able to clean your garments,
but you must make sure that they are experienced with sequins
and rhinestones. Most garments can be hand washed in cold
water with a small amount of mild detergent and rinsed
thoroughly. Roll them gently in a color-stable towel, then lie
flat to dry.
Q:
Any additional thoughts or suggestions?
Costume Gallery:
Check your order confirmation as soon as it arrives. If a
mistake was made, it is much easier to correct it at that time
than when you receive your order in April.
Curtain Call Costumes:
If your choreographic ideas are not clear, consider browsing
catalogs and letting the costumes be your inspiration. You may
see a costume you fall in love with, and it can generate ideas
for the piece. Use the costume as the starting point for the
choreography and music.
DesignWorks:
Do not let someone who has no experience with a measuring tape
measure your students. You will be assured of a proper fit
when you take accurate measurements. We recommend that
measurements be taken with the students wearing a leotard and
standing tall with feet together. Take the girth measurement
first; it is the most important. Then move on to bust, waist,
and hips. If the girth measurement is at the end of the size
chart table for that size and the child is in a growth-spurt
year, move up to the next size. Fit the students in their
costumes as soon as possible to allow time for exchanges.
Ferreira Dance & Costumes:
Understanding how the different companies operate and relying
on positive past experiences could be a guide to successful
costume ordering in the future.
Weissman’s Designs for Dance:
Attending UDMA shows or visiting costume manufacturers through
hosted preview events or by appointment is a wise investment
of time. Our costume book replicates our fabrics as closely as
possible, but some colors are not reproducible in four-color
process printing. Some costumes have fabulous catalog appeal;
others are stunning but do not photograph well. The
relationships that studios build with costume manufacturers
are worth the investment.
All photos by Theresa Smerud
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